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Lumber & Framing

What Are the Actual Dimensions of a 2×4?

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At a glance

Nominal vs actual lumber sizes (S4S, kiln-dried)
Nominal nameActual size (inches)Common use
1×20.75 × 1.5Trim, blocking, lath
1×40.75 × 3.5Trim, fascia, rake board
1×60.75 × 5.5Siding, decking trim
1×80.75 × 7.25Wide trim, shelving
2×41.5 × 3.5Wall framing, plates
2×61.5 × 5.5Exterior walls, plates
2×81.5 × 7.25Floor joists (short span)
2×101.5 × 9.25Floor joists (medium span)
2×121.5 × 11.25Floor joists, stair stringers
4×43.5 × 3.5Posts, columns, beams
6×65.5 × 5.5Heavy posts, sill beams

How to calculate it yourself

Rule of thumb: lumber 2 inches and under loses ½ inch from each nominal dimension; lumber over 2 inches loses ¾ inch from the wider face. So a "1×6" loses ¼ inch in thickness and ½ inch in width = 0.75 × 5.5 actual. A "2×12" stays 1.5 thick but the width drops from 12 to 11.25.

Common scenarios

Building a stud wall

A 2×4 stud wall with 16" on-center spacing creates 14.5" wide cavities (16" minus 1.5" stud). Insulation batts are sold pre-cut to fit this cavity (15-1/4" wide, allowing for friction fit). Drywall is sized for the same spacing (4×8 sheets land on stud centers).

Sizing a header over a window

A "2×8 header" is actually 1.5 × 7.25, which means 7.25 inches deep — important for clearance calculations. For a 6-ft window opening, code typically requires a 2-2×8 (built-up) header = 3 inches thick (two boards laminated) × 7.25 deep.

Buying lumber for a deck

A "2×6" deck board is 1.5 × 5.5 inches. To cover a 10-ft section side-by-side with ¼" gaps: 120 inches ÷ (5.5 + 0.25) = 21 boards. Always work with actual dimensions for spacing calculations.

Related questions

Frequently asked

  • The actual-vs-nominal gap has existed since at least the 1920s but was standardized by the American Lumber Standards Committee in 1924 (and updated several times since). The current US Standard PS 20 sets the dimensions you see today. The change has been gradual — earlier 20th-century 2×4s were closer to 1¾ × 3¾.

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